

2012 marks the 10th anniversary of the Louis Vuitton Tambour
collection. In fact, 10 years ago the Tambour marked LV’s entry into
the world of watchmaking. As its name implies the Tambour, or “drum”,
watch was originally inspired by the Japanese Kodo drummers and their
taiko drums. The Tambour collection for LV is also distinguishable by
its 12 letters “Louis Vuitton” engraved on the caseband at each hour,
and also (but not always) the use of the color yellow — a nod to the
waxed thread used in Louis Vuitton’s iconic handbags.
Over the last ten years there has been a wide range of Tambour
references launched by the brand representing a broad array of
functions, complications and price points. There have been
chronographs and regatta timers, tourbillons and minute repeaters…and
unique complications such as the “Spin Time” and the “Mysterieuse”.
Without a doubt, the Tambour collection is an interesting one (both
mechanically and aesthetically), though it is likely that the brand’s
dominant perception as a haute fashion and leather goods house has
overshadowed its horological presentations. But this is all about to
change, and Louis Vuitton’s standing as a serious watchmaker is about to
get much more credible.
Louis Vuitton has taken several steps in recent years to vertically
integrate its production capabilities, including recent acquisitions of
movement and dial makers. This will all culminate in a new Louis
Vuitton manufacture, in Geneva, in 2013. There is no doubt that Louis
Vuitton’s horological ambitions are as great as ever. Though assuredly
the mark’s presence in the world of fine watchmaking will remain very
limited, serving the upper circles of the watch world with an
increasingly sophisticated and integrated approach.

Follow along as we take a look back at ten years of the
Tambour Collection — and explore the future of Louis Vuitton
watchmaking.
Louis Vuitton Watchmaking, 2002 – 2012: 1o Years of the Tambour Collection

2002
Louis Vuitton Tambour Chrono Automatic LV277

2004
Louis Vuitton Tambour Regatta

2005
Louis Vuitton Tambour Tourbillon Monogram

Louis Vuitton Tambour Diving

2006
Louis Vuitton Tambour GMT in Black

Louis Vuitton Tambour Bijou

Louis Vuitton Tambour Lovely Cup

2008
Louis Vuitton Tambour Orientation

2009
Louis Vuitton Tambour Mystérieuse


2010
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time


Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Rose Gold + Diamonds

2011
Louis Vuitton Tambour Répétition Minutes


Louis Vuitton Tambour Capsule Chronographe Voyagez Tachymètre

Louis Vuitton Tambour Chronographe Volez Flyback

Louis Vuitton Tambour Chronographe Voyagez

2012
Louis Vuitton Tambour LV Cup Spin Time

Louis Vuitton Tambour Bijou Secret White Gold + Diamonds

Louis Vuitton Tambour America’s Cup Automatique

The Future of Louis Vuitton Watchmaking
With Louis Vuitton’s early 2011 acquisition of the Fabrique de Temps —
specialists in high end watch movements and complications such as
minute repeaters and tourbillons — followed ArteCad and Léman Cadrans
(dial makers), Louis Vuitton is perhaps as ever as ready to help define
Louis Vuitton’s status in the world of high watchmaking, exclusive
though it may be.
Fabrique du Temps was founded in 2007 by master watchmakers Enrico
Barbasini and Michel Navas, two of the three creators of the now-defunct
BNB Concept. Mattias Buttet, as you may know, joined Jean-Claude Biver
at Hublot and has already made his mark on that brand’s high
complication developments. Barbasini and Navas are surely looking to do
the same at Louis Vuitton; and indeed already they have set the tone;
two of the more prominent examples being Louis Vuitton’s $310,000 minute
repeater (of 2011) and the “spin time” caliber.
Of course 2013 will be the long anticipated moment when the vertical
integration of the brand’s watchmaking capabilities are brought under
one roof at the new Louis Vuitton manufacture in Meyrin (in Geneva).
The 70,000-square-foot facility will ready LV for the future, including
its new ability to take full advantage of the Poinçon de Genève, or
Geneva Seal, to further raise the status of its timepieces. Indeed the
bar has been raised for 2013 and beyond, and Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking
presence will now start to be defined each year at the most important
of all watch shows, Baselworld. Which, incidentally, prior to 2011
Louis Vuitton did not even attend. Clearly the focus has been
sharpened!
Hamdi Chatti, Louis Vuitton’s head of watches and jewelry since 2010,
was recently quoted in a NY Times article: “Much of what we are doing
today was decided three years ago. Our long-term strategy is to
establish ourselves as a high-end watchmaker.” Having previously been
managing director of jewelry and watches at Montblanc, and Chief
Executive of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces before this, Mr. Chatti would
certainly seem to have the requisite background to elevate Louis
Vuitton’s status in the exclusive — and competitive — world of high
watchmaking.
With the new Geneva manufacture opening and a clear organizational
commitment to the long-term, 2013 should be defining and seminal year
for Louis Vuitton watchmaking. Of course, Perpetuelle will continue to
bring you all the latest developments!
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