Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

The distinctive and prestigious Overseas chronograph was first launched in 1996, with the current collection boasting a wide variety of references in a variety of case metals and dial choices, including models with added complications such as the aforementioned perpetual calendar.  This model with lacquered blue dial and steel case and bracelet joins black and white-dialed models of the same mold.  A version in rose gold/blue dial is also available.  This is undeniably the most adventurous dial color choice yet — bold but by no means overbearing, culminating in a splendid new offering from Vacheron.  Let’s take a closer look, shall we?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph with Blue Dial

Ref 49150/B01A-9745

42mm stainless steel case, automatic mechanical Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1137 (3 Hz/21’600 vph), 150m water resistance

Indications: hours, minutes, small second, chronograph with 30-minute (3 o’clock) and 12-hour (9 o’clock) counters

Note above the fine details and interplay of finishes on the case:  the satin-finished table (the flat top part), polished bezel, and chamfered edges.  Unseen is a soft iron inner case providing anti-magnetic resistance.

Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1137

26.20 mm (11 ¼ lignes) by 6.6mm thick, 3 Hz/21’600 vph, 183 parts, 37 jewels, 40hr power reserve,

As is the standard on the Overseas, the caseback is distinguished by a raised motif depicting the historical Amerigo Vespucci sailboat.  Here is a closeup:

As I have discussed previously, the Maltese Cross is a major source of design inspiration for this piece — Maltese Cross inspired bezel and crown.  Note also the blue snailed counters and applied hands and hour-markers in 18K white gold (with white luminescent material):

Another distinctive feature is the steel bracelet, its links shaped like a half Maltese Cross and with a mix of polished and satin finished surfaces.  And then there is the beautiful view on the bottom, when the triple-blade folding clasp is closed:

This Overseas Chronograph in steel case, among the most distinctive and iconic Haute Horlgerie chronograph watches, will likely be priced around US $22,000, similar to the white and black dial, steel case models.  Thanks to Vacheron for the live pics.

Explore more at  http://www.vacheron-constantin.com,

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding

41mm rose gold case, ultra-thin automatic Caliber 1120, stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Vacheron Constantin has announced the new Patrimony Traditionelle Self-Winding — in a 41mm case and with the legendary automatic ultra-thin Caliber 1120.  The watch is classic and traditional, but at the same time its 41mm diameter lends it an undeniably contemporary dimension.  I’ll walk through the particulars on this superb new reference from Vacheron, as well as a detailed look at the legendary Caliber 1120 and its origins (including its commonality with the AP Cal. 2120 and the Patek Cal 28-255), below.

The gold case frames an opaline silver-toned dial with 18-carat pink gold applied hour-markers, punctuated by a black minute circle.  It is fitted on a chestnut brown alligator strap with matching 18-carat pink gold pin buckle.

At the heart of its case ticks the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 1120 — one of the most highly regarded calibers in all of watchmaking.   And on the new Patrimony Tradionelle it is visible through a sapphire crystal display back.

Given its notoriety, it is only fitting that we review more closely the ultra-thin Caliber 1120 in this watch.   There is also an interesting history behind movement — which I go in-depth on in the “Did You Know” segment below.  Here are a couple looks at the Caliber, and some of the specifications:

28.40 mm (12’’’ ½) by 2.45mm thick, frequency of 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour), Gyromax balance, 144 total parts; with Côtes de Genève, chamfered and hand-polished elements

In the close-up image below, observe carefully and you will see that not only are the surfaces of the movement adorned with a meticulously executed “Côtes de Genève” motif, but all their sharp angles are chamfered and then (hand) polished. Such is also the case with the screw heads.  I am also quite fond of the carved-out Maltese cross emblem on the rotor.

As noted above, the piece carries the Geneva Seal — bear in mind that this is the seal (“Hallmark of Geneva”) with the new/updated requirements (2011) that are no longer confined exclusively to the movement, but also take the entire finished watch into account.

All in all, I would say that the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Self-Winding is a splendid timepiece.  And while it is to be expected that some traditionalists will scoff at the larger case size, this new reference can still boast of having beautiful lines and well-balanced proportions — as well as an unquestionably quality caliber.

Did You Know?

To my knowledge, there is only a single caliber that has been used by all members of the Swiss watchmaking holy trinity–Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin–and by no one else.   And as I noted above it is considered one of the greatest movements ever produced.  It originated in 1967 from the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. known as the the Caliber 920.  From the Cal. 920 come the Audemars Piguet Caliber 2120, the Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1120, and the Patek Philippe Caliber 28-255.  Patek Philippe, while attempting to produce a reliable, flat automatic design of its own, introduced the Nautilus in 1970 with the 920 (Patek caliber 28-255), and kept the watch in production for 10 years (then switching to the caliber 335SC).

At present day, AP has rights to the movement (now the AP 2120) and it also supplies the caliber to Vacheron Constantin.  Vacheron refers to it as the Caliber 1120, and while some of the Cal. 1120 components are machined by AP, Vacheron obviously makes major modifications for the movement to be compliant with the Geneva Seal.

For some additional perspective and reading on this fascinating topic (the JLC 920/AP 2120/VC 1120/PP 28-255), there is a technical discussion available by Walt Odets at TZ.  For discussion of the Cal. 1120 from a Vacheron-centric point of view, see this thread over at the VC Hour Lounge; for perspective on this Caliber from a long-time AP collector’s point of view, see here.

Vacheron Constantin Chagall et l’Opera de Paris Tribute to 4 Composers

In 2010 Vacheron Constantin created a unique timepiece called “The Chagall et l’Opera de Paris – Tribute to the Great Composers” whose enamel dial is a reproduction of the Paris Opera Garnier ceiling painted by Chagall in 1964.   Vacheron Constantin decided to keep this watch in its private collection but to create 11 unique pieces each representing one of the composers depicted in Chagall’s original painting.  Recently, a look the 5th piece of the series was released over at VC’s in-house forum, the Hour Lounge.  The watch has already been purchased, but I thought I would show a few pics here because it is a unique and enticing piece.  Even more so if you are interested in the opera and/or four famous composers represented on the dial.

This dial pays tribute to four famous composers whose works are depicted at the center of the Palais Garnier Opera House Ceiling.   All four operas celebrate the irresistible power of love through colorful shades, based on primary colors.  Represented are Ludwig van Beethoven – Fidelio, Georges Bizet – Carmen, Christoph Willibald von Gluck - Orpheus and Eurydice and Giuseppe Verdi - La Traviata.

 40mm yellow gold case, automatic mechanical VC Calibre 2460

You can read and see more in this thread over at the Vacheron Constantin Hour Lounge.

Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige (Live Pics)

1.64mm ultra-thin caliber 1003…

 

 above photo: VC The Hour Lounge

above photo: VC The Hour Lounge

According to Vacheron, the original 1972 was made in a very limited series with a caseback engraved with the Prestige de la France coat of arms, so as to commemorate the award given to the prestigious watch manufacture by the Comite de France.

The 1972 Prestige featured here is, like the original, embellished with the Prestige de la France on the caseback.  The case dimensions, though proportionally the same, are slightly larger than the original.  Both are in accordance with the Golden Ratio, a formula which is known to yield aesthetically pleasing objects — hence its use by artists and architects for many many years now.

For the opening of Vacheron Constantin’s new Paris flagship boutique in Paris, the brand revisited a distinct model from its past to create the 1972 Prestige.  The new Prestige is part of the asymmetrical “1972″ collection and was inspired by the original from 1972.  Though, this modern day version features the Geneva Seal and has the ultra-thin VC hand-wound caliber 1003 made of gold (same as in the Historiques 1955).  It will be offered in two variations — including a 40-piece boutique-only edition, shown above.  The Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige price is $40,000.  Despite its asymmetry, it is actually a rather elegant watch (see wrist shot below).

Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige

Production model (left); limited edition 40-piece boutique exclusive (right)

25mm x 47mm asymmetrical white gold case (8.72mm thick), hallmark of Geneva, hand-wound VC cal 1003

grey dial / rose gold hands

If you want to see more hands-on pics, jump on over to this page at The Hour Lounge, Vacheron’s self-hosted forum.

Did You Know?

Vacheron Caliber 1003 was developed starting in 1952 and introduced on the company’s two-hundredth birthday in 1955.  To this day, it remains the thinnest mechanical hand-wound movement on the market.  Of note is that with the original caliber 1003 of 1955 the engineers and watchmakers decided to forgo shock protection on the escape wheel so as to maintain the thinnest execution possible; however in the early 90s watchmaking techniques enabled the addition of shock protection without increasing the calibers height.

On this occasion, Vacheron Constantin has chosen to use a revisited version of this calibre.  It remains only 1.64 mm thick – still a record for thinness on the market. In contrast, its finishes are more sophisticated than in the early days, because now the bridges and plate are made of 18K gold.  Its 117 components work at a frequency of 18,000 vph, and despite its minuscule size it has a power reserve of over 30 hours.  It is meticulously finished: applying the Côtes de Genève motif,circular graining and bevelling of the components, and drawing of the steel parts is all done entirely by hand.

Read more about the Caliber 1003 and other Vacheron ultra-thin calibers here, at the brand’s Hour Lounge Forum.

Urwerk’s new UR-CC1 King Cobra

Urwerk is one of the more unique independent brands out there today, and its newly unveiled UR-CC1 leaves no doubt about it.  The brand was founded and is led by two extraordinary individuals, Master Watcmaker Felix Baumgartner and Chief Designer Martin Frei.  Urwerk produces small quantities of some very complicated (but in a very untraditional sense of the word ‘complicated’ as used in the watch industry) and undoubtedly exceptional wristwatches.  For starters, have a look at some of the pieces in its 103 collection and  202 collection.   Now I’m not a huge fan or follower of Urwerk (maybe one day-I do admit to having a great sense of curiosity towards Urwerk’s watches), but as one might expect with a brand that produces highly innovative and atypical wristwatches such as these, there is a bit of a cult following.  These folks and many others have eagerly awaited the revelation of the Baumgartner and Frei’s newest creation – the CC1.

I’ll just share some photos for now because the development of this timepiece has been followed closely by noted watch journalist Ian Skellern (follow him on Twitter @underthedial) – and you can read a bit more about Ian’s work on the UR-CC1 here and here, or you can wait for his next report which will surely be coming soon.

So let’s get on with the show, shall we?!

Simultaneous viewing of seconds – linearly and digitally (top of the watch), and linear display of hours and minutes – unprecedented!

On the UR-CC1, there are two horizontal indications displayed by two retrograde cylinders: one for the (jumping) hours, the other for the minutes.  A vertical triple-cam operating a rack (visible through a window in the side of the case) rotates the minute cylinder (seen through case back).

The rotating disk which displays the seconds both digitally and linearly.

Urwerk The Razor’s Edge

The New Urwerk UR-203

Urwerk is known to produce complicated pieces with interesting takes on the ways we tell time.  Since the introduction of their UR-103 collection Urwerk has used a method of satellite discs to display the hour and minutes.  Expanding on that idea, and using a design they first introduced in the Harry Winston Opus V, Felix Baumgartner (co-founder and master watchmaker) and Martin Frei (co-founder and chief designer) unveiled the 200 collection which uses a series of turning cubes on a rotating carousel to show the hour and telescoping hands that emerge from those cubes to display the minutes as they passed by.  Since their introduction, the team at Urwerk have been modifying those wildly popular collections offering new variations to would be buyers.

In late January, during a special introduction event in Geneva, Urwerk took their next step while proudly unveiling the UR-203.  At first glance the UR-203 looks somewhat similar to its brother, the 202;  sporting the same aggressively designed geometric case and similar rotating carousel with flipping display cubes.  Upon closer inspection you see that Felix and Martin spent some time stripping down the design to its bare minimum.  Skeletonizing the carousel and using an ARCAP P40 stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy, not only giving the observer an inside look of how the display mechanism operates but also reducing the weight of the carriage by 65%; which now weighs a mere 3.57 grams.

 

Urwerk also introduced two new indicators on the dial that appear to be a first for any brand.  Tucked away in the corners under the crystal are the “Oil Change” and “150 Years Horological Odometer” displays.  The oil change indicator slowly moves along eventually informing its wearer that the movement needs to be serviced, which is every three years per the manufacturer’s recommendations.  On the opposite side the “odometer” displays how long the movement has been operating, with an ultimate display of 150 years.  With obvious inspiration from an automobile, some could see these features as something of an unneeded gimmick, but they fit well enough into the dial design that I don’t think they distract from the functionality, or overall style of the watch.

Regarding the development of the UR-203 Felix Baumgartner explains “This UR-203 is a wild idea of Martin Frei“, he continues. “Martin imagined a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence. We had to start again at the beginning to develop this model, we sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.”

Those familiar with the UR-202 will recognize the automatic movement that uses mini turbines to regulate its winding in the new 203, but it has been tweaked a bit hence what powers the UR-203 is a new Caliber, the UR 7.03.   The UR-203 will have a very limited production run of only 20 pieces all in a black PE-CVD coated platinum case micro-sanded with a titanium back plate.

This one is sure to draw some attention at the up and coming 2010 watch fairs.

Urwerk Tarantula “Mexican Fireleg”

Aggressive and venemous….the capstone for the 7th and final year of production for the Urwerk 103 collection…

Martin Frei says, “Our 103 collection is entering its seventh year. It has reached its maturity and fullness. It was Urwerk’s first masterpiece, one of audacity and challenge.  In my opinion, it is the one that symbolises to this day the perfect balance between elegance and technicity. A fragile balance, but one which we have succeeded in preserving. This emblematic model deserves an end commensurate with its life.”

The Urwerk 103 Tarantula Mexican Fireleg

 Close-Up

Orange luminescent markets, Limited edition of 60 timepieces

Urwerk White Shark (UR-202)

With this new UR-202 “White Shark” I’ve got to give the guys at Urwerk credit for their continued and excellent ability to seek inspiration from exotic species and see it through to an equally exotic timepiece. Urwerk’s new Rare Species collection (website coming soon) will reflect ultra-limited production of pieces developed in close collaboration with specific partners.  The first rare species which you see below is the UR-202 White Shark, and it bears the imprint of Chronopassion (Paris) and The Hour Glass (Singapore), two famous horology retailers and collaborators for this particular piece.

The White Shark keeps with the overall design of the original UR-202 except for its monochromatic color scheme — thus delivering upon the “white shark” concept.  The one red number of the 12 hour digits you see below signifies the limited edition nature of this model — just 12 pieces.

Technical Description (per Urwerk):

Time on the UR-202 is displayed using telescopic minute hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hour satellites. These hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14, 15 – 44, 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-202 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a very wearable and comfortably sized case. A moonphase and day/night indicator complete the dial..
The patented central carousel is the nerve centre of the satellite complication. It is not only enables the rotating hour satellites, but also the high-precision manoeuvres performed by the three telescopic minute hands. The carousel is a technical tour-de-force requiring fabrication tolerances down to three micros.
Two turbines are visible on the back of the UR-202 “White Shark” and these are coupled to the rotor to regulate the winding system of the watch. The turbines are controlled by a three position selector lever. In mode”FREE”, the two turbines spin freely enabling maximum winding of the mainspring. In mode “Sport”, the two turbines spin with resistance, acting like pneumatic brakes that reduce the winding efficacy wound by 1/3rd. In mode “STOP”, the turbines are locked and block the rotor from winding at all, although the watch can still be manually wound if necessary.

Urwerk UR-202S With Bracelet

“S” stands for Stripe (striped dial)

Watches such as this new UR-202S made by Urwerk serve a very special and narrow niche in the watch industry.   I admit that I am still warming up to their fantastical designs, but now and again they quite captivate me.  Urwerk’s unconventional and sometimes “exotic-animal inspired” watches are made in small quantities (<100) and sell for very high prices ($50k+) to very passionate collectors.  Now what you see here is a new take on the UR-202, simply by virtue of its having a metal bracelet.  Not just any bracelet, though, the shape of the UR-202 case requires a highly engineered bracelet — what watch journalist Ian Skellern aptly calls a “Rolls Royce bracelet.”  According to Skellern in his fantastic behind-the-scenes tour of the UR-202S bracelet making process,  the cool thing is that 16 of the 22 links in each UR-202S bracelet are unique forms and sizes.   Only six of the 22 links are identical.  As you can imagine, with such a specialized process like this, there is yet another reason why Urwerk watches cost so much and are so rare.

Urwerk UR-202S With Bracelet

The UR-202 already had a limited version called the White Shark.  The new 202S is limited to 50 pieces in total with a choice of three versions; gold, Titanium Aluminium Nitride coated stainless steel or polished stainless steel…

Urwerk UR-103 Phoenix for ONLY WATCH 2011

Phoenix Rising…

It is a visually stunning watch from the very first glance, with white gold case that has been hand-decorated by master engraver and artist Jean-Vincent Huguenin (he’s no stranger to Urwerk).  I think the “Phoenix Rising” motif is a great choice both for its fit with the UR-103 case style and for the noble cause of the Only Watch event (proceeds go toward research for the debilitating disease known as Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy).  If you are not familiar with the Phoenix, it is one of the great symbols of mythology representing rebirth, a life that is never conquered by death, always rising from the ashes to fly again (more Wikipedia, Google).

It’s a spectacular piece for a great cause.  Nicely done, Urwerk!

Via: Revo-Online.

Urwerk UR-103 “Phoenix”

Unique Piece

Says watch artist and URWERK co-founder Martin Frei:

In our daily lives we all have objects that are slightly talismanic. We love to have them at our side, in touching distance. Without giving them a mystical value, we assign them a virtue, an ‘aura’. With this in mind, we have designed the UR-103 as a veritable talisman – a source of energy for its future owner.

Master Engraver Jean-Vincent Huguenin decorating the UR-103 Phoenix