Frederique Constant Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu

Here’s a beauty that caught my eye, the new limited edition Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu, from none other than Frederique Constant.    Several years ago I might have said that this watch was a nice surprise from an otherwise ho-hum brand (historically I’ve found their watches to be very plain, almost boring), but times have changed and I must confess that Frederique Constant is consistently putting out good looking watches these days — and with personality, too.   The brand’s pieces typically run in the $1,000 – $3,000 range, give or take, but this limited edition (188 pieces) showpiece will probably be closer to $50,000 (anyone know?).  You can learn more the Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu over on the FC blog where I first read about it.

As an aside, my congrats to brand CEO Peter Stas and his wife Aletta Stas for their continued success — they seem to have done an amazing job growing this brand over the past couple decades, particularly in the last 5 years (perhaps no coincidence this is when they added in-house movement capabilities.

Frederique Constant Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu

limited edition 188 pieces, enamel dial, Breguet-style hands, manufacture tourbillon with silicon escapement

Short Video of the Frederique Constant Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu

Frederique Constant Carrera Panamericana

Baselworld 2012: Frederique Constant introduces a limited edition piece to celebrate the 24th edition of La Carrera Panamericana race (see “Did You Know” below).  The Carrera Panamericana watches feature a 43mm diameter polished stainless steel case and the new manual-wind caliber FC-435 with small second (a manufacture movement?) — in one of two dial variations:  silver (pictured) or rose gold plated applied luminous hour markers.  Nice and conservative looking watch, though I wonder why they did not a sportier design to fit the racing theme.  Price should be reasonable, too.

 Frederique Constant Carrera Panamericana

Limited edition 1888

43mm steel case, manual-wind movement

Did You Know?

About La Carrera Panamericana

With a history dating back to 1950, La Carrera Panamericana is one of the most emblematic classic car rallies in the world and has become a true legend, a race that hosts hundreds of drivers and co-drivers and millions of classic car aficionados.

After the Mexican section of the Panamerican Highway was completed in 1950, a five-day race across the country was organized by the Mexican government to advertise this feat and to attract international business into Mexico. The race ran almost entirely along the new highway, which crossed the country from north to south for a total distance of over 3,300 kilometers (2,100 mi).

This year, during the 24th edition of the event, one hundred and eighteen cars with drivers from 15 different nationalities participated in La Carrera Panamericana. They traveled across Mexico, starting their journey in Huatulco, located on the south coast of Mexico, to finish seven days later in the colonial city of Zacatecas.

For Frédérique Constant, sponsoring La Carrera Panamericana forms an exciting and logical new chapter in its history of classic car related sponsorships around the world in the past. If there is one element that is required to take part in La Carrera Panamericana, it is true Passion. It is this same Passion that guides Frédérique Constant on its highly successful journey through the world of fine watch making.

Frederique Constant Runabout “Venice” Watch

Geneva-based Frederique Constant introduces the ‘Venice Editions’ of the Runabout, consisting of a Chronograph version and a Three-hand Automatic with date.  Both timepieces feature a stainless steel case and a silvered dial with applied, rose gold plated Arabic indexes.   I’m only showing here my favorite of the two, the basic 3-hander.  The case is paired with a complimenting light brown strap with off-white stitching.  On the plus side, I’ve always liked the graceful lines of Frederique Constant’s Runabout case.  As well, this watch comes with a very neat display box which includes a miniature model of a “runabout” boat.  The one quibble I have on this piece is “radial flip” of the Arabic numerals.  That is, the numerals on the lower half of the dial have been “flipped” so the bottoms of the numerals face the periphery of the dial.   This is purely a matter of opinion, but I’ve always found it less appealing than the alternative.  Even so, this would make for a nice, classic dress watch in any collection.

Frederique Constant Runabout “Venice” Editions

Limited numbered edition 1888 pieces each model

43mm polished steel case, automatic mechanical Swiss movement

Frederique Constant Slimline Tourbillon Manufacture

Today we have a splendid new tourbillon watch with silicon escapement at a price point of right around $35,000 (give or take a couple grand depending on your choice of case metal).    A tourbillon at $35,000?  Must be from China, right?  Nope, far from it.  This compelling watch comes from none other than Geneve-based Frederique Constant.

 

Given that the price point for a tourbillon watch easily runs into the six-figures for most brands who produce such a watch, these pieces from Frederique Constant certainly stand out.  And as you can see, this new Slimline Manufacture Tourbillon is a pretty good looking watch.  Let’s take a closer look.

Shown below is the steel-case model, ref. FC-980S4S6.  I strongly prefer this model to the slightly higher priced alternative with a  steel body and rose gold bezel (ref. FC-980V4SZ9).

Limited Edition 188 pieces, $33,995/€26,500

The view through the sapphire crystal caseback is also quite nice.  The finishing and decoration is very modest, as I would expect.  You can see some basic and common finishing techniques such as perlage and cotes-de-Geneve striping.  The rotor is also elegantly shaped.  More laborious hand finishes are not present (chamfering, for example); again as would be expected.

Shown here is reference FC-980V4SZ9, with a titanium body and rose gold bezel.  The case size is 43mm x 12.3mm thick.

Limited Edition 188 pieces, $36,995/€28,500

You can see here the 60-second tourbillon, and the silicium escapement components (with their blue color).  Note also the dual-tipped day/night indicator hand — personally, I think that this watch would be more elegant without it.

Let me also share some thoughts on my examination of the the history that brought us this piece.  In fact it was back in 2008 that the Geneva-based manufacture presented its first Tourbillon Manufacture movement, the Caliber FC-980.  The FC-980 debuted in the Frederique Constant Heart Beat Manufacture Tourbillon watches which were issued in a limited edition of 88 pieces in white gold, 188 in rose gold, and 188 in rose gold with a grand feu enamel dial.

FC’s launch of a tourbillon in 2008 was, I think, a remarkable surprising announcement from the brand at the time.  After all, although a member of the small circle of Swiss watch brands that develop and produce their movements in-house, FC was and is known for its presence in the “accessible luxury” segment.  That is, they produce high quality pieces and price them very aggressively — offering the consumer a lot of “bang for the buck” so to speak.  Thus a value-oriented tourbillon was, and remains, an interesting product in the world of high watchmaking.

I believe that the Heart Beat tourbillon — with the same caliber as today’s Slimline tourbillon, but with precious metal cases — were priced around $50,000.  So it is interesting to see that Frederique Constant has decided to move even more aggressively down the price scale with the Slimline Tourbillon, and doing so by moving away from a precious metal case.

I am somewhat ambivalent about this strategy, but I believe that FC knows its market well and if it is able to find a home for these watches then there can be really no questioning of their wisdom in applying the “value for price” model to even the most elite of complications.  The end point for me here is that the Slimline Tourbillon is a great looking watch at a very compelling price point, and it provides the opportunity for someone who might otherwise never be able to own a tourbillon the chance to own one.  And this, more broadly speaking, is what I like about Frederique Constant — that they are enabling more watch enthusiasts to experience complications that were previously (and mostly still are) the reserve of the elite brands.

Frederique Constant Worldtimer Collection

Last month, Geneva-based Frederique Constant unveiled its new Worldtimer Manufacture collection, with two references.  These are some great looking pieces and of course they are affordable  — both elements as we have come to expect from Frederique Constant.  More than this though, there’s also some mechanical genius to the new Worldtimer Manufacture, and it lies in the simplicity of use of the watch — all functions are handled by using the crown!  Not even Girard-Perregaux and its renowned ww.tc world timers can boast of this    Let’s take a closer look, below.

The Worldtimer function can be achieved simply by selecting the desired city and placing it at the 12 o’clock position on the dial. Internal discs automatically synchronise, and after that, it’s possible to see what time it is in any of the 24 cities on the dial.   In addition, thin discs also indicate at a glance whether it’s day (white disc) or night (black disc).    Both of these limited edition models have a date counter at the 6 o’clock position with a fan-pattern decoration.

The first reference has a silver dial with a nice guilloché decoration on the inner portion.  There hands are black and of the Breguet-style.  Comes on a black alligator strap.

The second reference has a detailed world map in the center with hand polished blue hands.  Also available on black alligator strap, or a navy alligator strap.  The navy strap is quite beautiful, as seen here.

The movement is the manufacture Frederique Constant caliber FC-718 (automatic mechanical).  I am fairly certain that it is developed off of their Cal FC-710 which is found in the Classics Manufacture pieces.

The worldtimer caliber FC-718 is modestly decorated but has a nice symmetry to it and looks nice through the sapphire caseback:

Each piece available in a limited edition collection of 1,888 pieces, presented in a classic wooden gift box, with an engraved limited edition plate.  Price is {TBD}