TAG Heuer Mikrogirder 2000

Conceived, developed and manufactured in-house in the company’s R&D lab in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the MIKROGIRDER is the fastest mechanical regulator ever crafted and tested.  Accurate to an unprecedented 5/10,000 or 1/2,000th of a second, the MIKROGIRDER is a completely new regulator system — a coupling beam/girder and excitatory beam/girder system working with a linear oscillator (versus a spiral shape in a classical hairspring) that vibrates isochronously at a very small angle, as opposed to a traditional watch, which vibrates at an angle of up to 320 degrees.

The MIKROGIRDER’s dual frequency system ensures precision and chronometry through 2 independent chains. As there is no possibility of interference between “normal speed” and “high speed”, there is better precision and accuracy. The power reserve is improved, too, and wear and tear dramatically reduced, as “high speed” is “on demand” instead of being always engaged. Finally, the dual frequency system offers the ultimate in readability.The smallest fraction of time — 1/100th, 1/1,000th and ½,000th (5/10,000) of a second — is displayed on a central hand that does a complete revolution around the dial a mind-boggling 20 times per second. Furthermore, and like the Mikrotimer Flying 1000, the dial display allows a quick and easy reading of the incredible measurement thanks to 3 scales, 2 external and one at 6 o’clock allowing to read 5/10,000 or 1/2,000ths of a second.

The advantages are numerous. In a classic spiral hairspring system, the effect of gravity due to mass is a dominant issue. With the MIKROGIRDER, the problem no longer even exists. There is no loss of amplitude and the movement’s frequency can be modulated on a very large spectrum of frequency without overburdening the power supply. The result is a significant increase in precision (division of time) and performance (frequency accuracy and stability). The MIKROGIRDER energy performance will enable TAG Heuer chronographs to attain ultra-high frequencies never before dreamed possible. Ten patents are pending on this breakthrough.

True to its “Technology and Design” DNA, TAG Heuer has embedded this mechanical engineering masterpiece in a new stunning asymmetric chronograph case design. Though the placement of the crown at 12 o’clock is inspired by the 1/100th of a second Heuer stopwatches of the 1920s, the overall design is decisively avant-garde. The unconventional shape and wide opening makes for easier reading, while the dial design allows one to see the beam/girder regulator system “at work”. A new Concept masterpiece from TAG Heuer, it could very well become a commercial piece like most of its Concept predecessors of the last 10 years, including the Monaco V4, the Calibre 360, the Monaco 24, the Mikrograph 100, and, since the end of 2011, the Mikrotimer Flying 1000.

TAG Heuer Concept History

In 2010, TAG Heuer presented the Grand Carrera Pendulum Concept, the world’s first-ever mechanical regulator to replace a conventional hairspring with magnets. Following TAG Heuer’s Calibre 360 Chronograph (2005), which beats at 50Hz and measures and displays to the 1/100th of a second, the 6Hz Pendulum Concept, which is still under development, confirmed TAG Heuer’s position as the unrivalled pioneer of high frequencies.
In 2011, TAG Heuer launched the MIKROTIMER FLYING 1000, the world’s first 500hz mechanical chronograph. A revolutionary mechanical chronograph regulator without any balance wheel system and equipped with two escapements, the Mikrotimer’s beats 3.6 million times per hour, making it 125 times faster than a standard Swiss chronograph. Its central chronograph hand completes a full rotation 10 times per second. Now being successfully commercialized, the Mikrotimer was voted the 2011 Swiss Sports Watch of the Year at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix. The victory marked the 7th time in 10 years that TAG Heuer was singled out by the Geneva jury for its engineering and design prowess.
Now comes the pioneering MIKROGIRDER, the Swiss legend’s greatest achievement in watchmaking engineering to date, a game-changing technology which promises to completely revolutionize the very heart of the watch — the regulator. More than the Pendulum or the Mikrotimer, the MIKROGIRDER represents a total departure from the conventional, 3-centuries-old Christian Huygens system, which today still reigns over the mechanical watch industry.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph Date (Red Bezel)

Two weeks ago at the Geneva Time Exhibition, TAG Heuer launched 18 completely new editions of its iconic Formula 1 watch.  TAG did a great job — these are some exciting new pieces in TAG’s most popular collection.  Inspired by high-performance Formula 1 automotive technology, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is for many a gateway watch into the world of fine timepieces (it was for me, at least).  With a quartz movement inside, this watch is all about external appearances — balanced colors and design, unpretentious, functional and super tough — an aspirational piece for many a young professional.   This said, let’s look today at another one of new, revamped TAG Heuer Formula 1 watches, this one a Chronograph model with a striking red aluminum bezel ring.   Again, big credit to TAG Heuer on a job well done with the revamp of the Formula 1 line this year.  Available at TAG Heuer retailers worldwide in April 2012.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph Date (Red Bezel)

42mm black titanium carbide-coated case and bezel with red aluminum bezel ring inset

TAG Heuer Carrera Jack Heuer 80th Birthday Limited Edition

TAG Heuer insider blog Calibre11 brings us a nice look at the 2012 TAG Heuer Carrera Jack Heuer 80th Birthday edition that will officially be unveiled at Baselworld 2012 next week.  As the name suggests, the watch commemorates the 80th birthday this year of Jack Heuer, the man who among other notable achievements, launched the Carrera back in 1964 and was CEO of Heuer until its sale in 1982.  A fitting choice for this particular limited edition, the Carrera was first introduced in 1964, then discontinued in the mid-1980s before being brought back in 1996. Today, it’s the best-selling model in TAG Heuer’s line-up.  The new Carrera is a Limited Edition of 3000 with an estimated price of CHF4500 in Switzerland.  Lots more great looks and details over at Calibre11 blog.

TAG Heuer Carrera Jack Heuer 80th Birthday Limited Edition 

41mm steel case, automatic mechanical movement (ETA 2894-2), choice of strap or bracelet

TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 43mm Watches

TAG Heuer has expanded its “Calibre 1887″ lineup within the Carrera range with a 43mm Chronograph.  This is 2mm larger than the last year’s Carrera 1887 Chronograph.  As well, the watch is a bit more refined and less sporty — vaguely reminiscent of the IWC Portuguese, I think.  Available in a variety of dial/strap combinations, all models have gold hour and minute hands, matching gold Arabic numerals and black sub-dial hands (nicely chosen colors) — that is, except for the black-dialed model  which has all gold hands, including subdials.   Price will be around CHF5500, or $6000 at current F/X rates.  I am partial to the anthracite dial — looks great with the gold markers/numerals and black subdial hands.  Black dial versions look great, too.

TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 43mm

43mm steel case, automatic mechanical TAG Heuer Calibre 1887, variety of dial/strap combinations

Heuer Silverstone Triple – Full Caliber 12 Set

Silverstone Blue 110.313B c1975. Cal. 12

It’s undeniable that Heuer have made some fantastic watches, and this to me is one of the best. The successor to the Monaco, the Silverstone, especially in blue, is a king of watches. Not many pieces can get away with a hint of dress watch but be a full on (motor)sports watch, and this does it for me.

The metallic deep blue dial is spellbinding, the face is actually lightly brushed, north to south, which was news to me, as in photographs it looks flat blue, and the inner bezel is brushed in a radial sunburst pattern. This gives a wide ranging array in blues in different lighting conditions. From midnight blue to a pale blue, it’s compulsive viewing sometimes. This one came from the sun-kissed shores of Honolulu, Hawaii having arrived there from Australia. I think it’s come home now, especially as I bought it on my birthday.

What makes the owning experience even more enjoyable is that I’ve just had it fitted with a new sapphire crystal. Making wearing it a more relaxed affair, knowing it won’t get scratched, unlike the original mineral glasses. Rob at Nakai Watches spent a considerable amount of time getting exact (and I mean exact) sapphire crystals manufactured. This is a God-send, as NOS mineral glasses are like hens teeth, and would probably mean a £500 overhaul at TAG Heuer, Switzerland, as they insist on a full service before any watch leaves their workshop. More details on the sapphire crystals here.

The blue is contrasted by the crisp white handset and dial script, and together with that creamy aged lume, is just incredibly cool looking. It’s fair to say this is a masterpiece from Heuer. To top it off, this blue version was immortalised by Swiss racing legend Clay Regazzoni, and worn during his time with Ferrari from ’74-’76 with his team mate Nikki Lauda, another Heuer owner, both driving the famous Flat-12 312B3 / T / T2. In fact it was Regazzoni’s recommendation that help Lauda land a drive with Ferrari.

Heuer Silverstone  110.313B c1975. Cal. 12

I’m lucky enough to get my mitts on another Silverstone.. this time the beautiful Bordeaux, or ‘Red’. It’s interesting that the three Silverstones have different finishes to the dials. The Fume has the sunburst dial, the Blue is lightly brushed and metallic, and the Red, seen here is a flat colour. This may seem ‘plain’ compared to the slightly more exotic finishes of it’s brothers, but the finish of the red dial is sublime. The gloss bordeaux, is wonderful. It has a simple an alluring quality that reflect the ambient light in a wonderful manor.. sometimes it appear almost blue,well, more bluey-purple. Other times it is full red, then almost black.

Like my Blue Silverstone, this Red has been fitted with a new sapphire crystal (yes, I said sapphire)… Rob at Nakai Watches went to great lengths to secure the manufacture of exact replacement sapphire crystals. NOS mineral glasses are like hens teeth, and would cost a fortune, so these new sapphires are a revelation. More details on the sapphire crystals here. Again, like my Blue dial version, I’ve forgone a vintage bracelt of leather/corfam strap in favour of an aftermarket Hadley Roma Oyster bracelet. I think it suits the watch perfectly, and is very well made, it’s solid links adds a hefty weight, with balances the Silverstones big head.

The ‘red’ is the only model that TAG Heuer didn’t release as a ‘re-edition’. The Fume was re-released as a brown colour, the Blue was re-released as a straight blue. There is one exception though.. TAG Heuer built a one off reissue Red, bearing the signature of Jack Heuer, and was sold as part of the Haslinger Collection at the infamous Bonhams auction – it achieved a sum of £12,000, with all proceeds going to charity.

A big thanks goes to Rob at Nakia watches for selling me this wonderful timepiece, and for the sapphire crystal, the infamous DD who got me hooked on the ‘Red’ with his renowned wristshots, and James for fitting the crystal and sorting out a minor hand issue.

Silverstone Fume (Smoke) 110.313F c1974-76. Cal. 12.

This watch hardly requires any introduction, such is its legendary status. It’s the successor to the Monaco and has its ties deeply ingrained in motorsport history. I wasn’t even looking for a Silverstone, as, and I’ll be honest, I wasn’t a huge admirer of them. I was having an email ‘chat’ with Rich from HeuerMonaco.co.uk and he attached a photo of this mint example (when Rich says mint, he really means it – NOS would be more accurate), saying it was available. It originated from a Spanish watchmaker, sitting in a box for most of it’s life. I ummed and arred about it for a while and took the plunge.

My reasoning was that it would be an ‘investment’ and would spend much of it’s life safely tucked away, that theory didn’t last long. I found that it very quickly grew on me, in fact I couldn’t get the damn thing off my wrist. I’ve totally fallen for it now and have a new respect for the much celebrated Silverstone.

The fume, or ‘smoke’ dial is simply sublime. Sometimes it flicks from pure 70′s retro brown to deep dark earth tones, in the sunlight it comes alive with golden hues. In flat light it can appear quite grey. I’ve tried to capture these differences in the photographs, which was a tough job, I must have taken 60+ to get some half decent shots. Many show the dial in its rather pleasing ‘grey’ look. Update – I’ve taken some new shots on a brown strap.

Heuer Autavia 1163T Siffert

Heuer Autavia 1163T Siffert, Cal. 11 Mk4 w/Mk6 dial/hands, c1971 (on loan)

A big thanks goes to fellow Heuer collector and master Heuer tinterer James for letting me try out his Siffert. Thanks bud.

So, this is a 1971 Mk4 version with a Cal. 11 movement. At some time in it’s life it has most probably had the dial and hands replaced at service, so it has the later Mk6 dial, with the 1-12 numerals on the hour counter. This Mk6 livery is actually one of my favourite Sifferts, I love the blue tipped hands and tramline hour batons. (Earlier models had ridged batons). This is actually the first Siffert I have ever handled or seen in the flesh, and I’m genuinely blown away by it. Up until this point I had always admired the Siffert, but was of the mindset that it was a little overpriced compared to its other Autavia brothers. Now I can see the appeal, and why they command top prices – it is strikingly beautiful, and I can see why it is firmly one of the most sought after Heuers.

I won’t go into too much detail about Jo Siffert, but to simply say he was a legendary Swiss racing driver who loved his Heuers, and wore a white dialed 1163T for a long time. If you want to read up on his illustrious career, check out the Siffert Wiki page here.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Team USA” / “Oracle Racing” Chronographs

TAG Heuer has partnered Oracle Racing Team USA in the 34th America’s Cup, and here are the commemorative Aquaracer watches we knew were coming.  There are two “limited edition” chronographs here — one with “Team USA” logo and one with “Defender” logo.  Each model is available on a rubber strap or steel bracelet.   If you are not up on yacht racing (like me) you may be wondering what “Defender” is all about.  In short, it means that Oracle Racing Team USA won the last America’s Cup (in 2010, it was then ‘BMW Oracle USA’ beating Hublot sponsored Team Alinghi) and thus they are defending, rather than challenging for, the cup this time around.   Back to the watches:  of note you will see the touches of red, the official “Team USA” color, and the superbly looking “Oracle Racing Team” boat stamped on the caseback (also pictured below).  In addition to the models shown here, there is also a non-chronograph “Team USA” version being produced as well, if you prefer a simpler look.  All in, this is a nicely styled and respectably spec’d watch that many watch enthusiasts will be clamoring for.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Team USA” / “Oracle Racing” Watches

Limited Edition ? pieces

44mm stainless steel case, 500 meter water resistant, black rubber bezel, automatic mechanical TH Calibre 16, rubber strap or steel bracelet

One last note:  I say “limited edition” in quotations because TAG Heuer conveniently has not stated how many will be produced, which probably means it is a fairly high number (i.e. thousands+) by my definition of “limited edition”.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M Ceramic Watches

TAG Heuer and its insider blog Calibre11 have unveiled the new Aquaracer line for 2012, and the new models are definitely worth a look.  I won’t get into all the details except to say that the Aquaracer line has undergone several significant changes, most notably the use of a ceramic bezel — an Aquaracer first.  This redesign is not surprising given similar redesigns in other TAG Heuer collections the past two years, but as always there will be those who ‘like’ and those who do not.  I tend to like the smoother lines and thinnber bezel on these new models.  As for the particulars — Calibre11 is a TAG Heuer expert and they give an excellent run down on all the details — and more pics — just click on through.  Price is in the $2,500 – $3,000 range.  Here are a few of my favorite looks:

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M Ceramic

43mm case

Blue Dial/ Blue Ceramic Bezel/ Steel

TAG Heuer Carrera “Monaco Grand Prix” Edition Chronograph

Based on the 1964 Jack Heuer tribute to the Carrera Panamericana Mexico road race of the 50’s, this TAG Heuer Carrera “Monaco Grand Prix” watches features red lettering on the bezel, tachymetre scale, a vintage F1 rubber tire strap (very cool strap…reminds me of Chopard Mille Miglia), and inspired by Carrera Panamericana car, red touch on the hands and pusher, and a Monaco Grand Prix logo on its scratch-resistant sapphire caseback (not pictured).    Sharp racing watch.

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 16 CHRONOGRAPH MONACO GRAND PRIX LIMITED EDITION

43mm case, automatic mechanical TAG Heuer caliber 16 movement, rubber tire tread style strap

TAG Heuer MikrotourbillonS

TAG Heuer insider Calibre11 brings us the first comprehensive look at the new $230,000 (220,000 CHF) TAG Heuer MikrotourbillonS.  The watch features two tourbillons, and also as the name suggests is part of TAG’s “Mikro” platform featurng a double-barreled dual-frequency movement (one for the watch and one for the chronograph).   Cool looking watch — TAG Heuer’s R&D effort these past few years is generating some very interesting and impressive technology, good for them.

Get the full scoop on the TAG Heuer Mikrotoubillon — with lots of pics — over at Calibre11.

TAG Heuer MikrotourbillonS

45mm rose gold case, double tourbillon configuration

TAG Heuer Monaco 24 Watch

The Monaco 24 by TAG Heuer, is a stunning limited edition timepiece that since its original concept presentation in Basel in 2009 (though not launched until late 2010), has been a watch that epitomises Swiss luxury.  The 24 series was named to honor one of the most iconic races in motor racing, the Le Mans 24 hour race, but it wasn’t just the name that was inspired by the racing, it was the design and engineering behind it.  Underneath the polished titanium square casing and the shock absorbing arms lies the precise Calibre 36 movement which was designed and built to reflect the spectacular performance of the racing cars which feature in the endurance race.  The racing striped chronograph function dial and the black reptile skin detailed strap complete what is one of the boldest designs yet for the iconic Monaco collection.

TAG Heuer Monaco 24 Watch (Ref CAL5110.FC6265)

40.5mm black titanium-carbide finished steel case, automatic mechanical Calibre 36 movement (El Primero),

Visible through the caseback, you can see that TAG Heuer replaced the standard oscillating weight with an innovative 3-spoke design:

TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 “SpaceX” Watch

Above left is the new TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 “SpaceX”, a limited edition chronograph.  This stellar looking timepiece marks the 50th anniversary of TAG Heuer (originally Heuer) being the first Swiss timepiece to be worn in space.  That being the above right, a modified Heuer 2915A stopwatch, worn by astronaut John Glenn in 1962.  Top to bottom, inside and out, this is one awesome TAG Heuer with a great story around it.  I’ve got lots of praise, more looks and more details, below.

TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 “SpaceX” Watch

Limited edition 2,012 pieces

Price: ~$5,800, available from October 2012

The Carrera SpaceX is based on TAG’s standard 1887 Carrera, a watch I am also a fan of.  Unlike the normal 1887 Carrera, the SpaceX watch hands are custom — and I must say they look superb.  The dial is starch white with anthracite colored hour markings, matching the hands. The watch is fitted on a brown perforated strap which in an unexpected sort of way really completes the look.

Inside the watch is TAG’s impressive in-house caliber 1887.  Although I stirred up some of the controversy a couple years ago over how this caliber was originally announced, that is water under the bridge now — make no mistake that I really like the 1887 and the pieces it has been used in this far (speaking from hands-on experience).

Anyway — the caliber is semi-visible through smoked-sapphire case back that is overlaid with a rendering of the SpaceX logo and SpaceX’s Falcon 9 launch rocket and the Dragon spacecraft.

The well proportioned case and clean, crisp dial on this watch really captures me.  That and the tie-in with both a great historical event and the future of commercial spaceflight make this a definite watch for my wish list.

Definitely one of the most exciting and best looking TAG Heuer’s I’ve seen in recent times.  Superbly done, TAG Heuer!

As for SpaceX, well, I could go on for quite some time about this revolutionary company — but I won’t.  I will only say that if you are not familiar with SpaceX, I recommend you take some time to check it out at http://www.spacex.com/.  It is one hell of a cool story.

In short:  The company was founded in 2002 by billionaire Elon Musk, a founder and former CEO of PayPal (sold to eBay) and current CEO of Tesla Motors. The company’s prototype rocket, Falcon 1, was the first privately developed liquid-fueled rocket to reach orbit. The more powerful Falcon 9 rocket debuted with back-to-back successful flights in June and December of 2010.  The December 2010 flight included the first flight of the Dragon spacecraft, making SpaceX the first commercial company to send a spacecraft to orbit and return it safely to Earth.

In May 2012, SpaceX again made history when its Dragon spacecraft became the first commercial vehicle to successfully attach to the International Space Station —  with a TAG Heuer Carrera SpaceX watch on board. Previously only four governments — the United States, Russia, Japan and the European Space Agency — had achieved this challenging technical feat (sans Carrera).  SpaceX is the face of the new era in commercial spaceflight led by privately held companies.  SpaceX has even taken on the job of deliver cargo to the International Space Station (ISS) under a service contract with NASA.

Again, more on Space X at http://www.spacex.com/

For more detail on the 1962 history and the May 2012 SpaceX International Space Station mission (which included this SpaceX Carrera),  I recommend TAG Heuer insider blog Calibre11.

TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 Titanium Racing Chronograph

 TAG Heuer is set to launch a number of new models in 2013, mostly geared towards a milestone celebration of 50 years of Carrera.   For now, I wanted to highlight one piece that caught my eye — this new Carrera 1887 Racing watch, with a 43mm sand-blasted titanium case, black ceramic bezel, and gorgeous strap.

In fact this piece is part of a broader “tweaking” given to the Carrera Chronograph this year by TAG Heuer.  Essentially, TAG Heuer has morphed its popular 43mm Carrera Day-Date into a variety of new models, all of which are now powered by the brand’s in-house Caliber 1887 and which have a ceramic bezel.  The prior Carrera Day-Date had a simple steel bezel and ran on the TAG Heuer Calibre 16, otherwise known as an ETA 7750.   The other changes are subtle, save for one.  The new models are “date only” (vs. prior “day-date”).  As a result of this, TAG Heuer was able to reposition its logo (where the “date” window used to be).  In addition, a reference to the “100 meters” water resistance is also gone.  In combination, these changes actually tighten up the dial quite nicely.

The last change is a move from the 5-row bracelet (with the two thin, mirror polished strips) to the 3-row pattern bracelet found on the Grand Carrera series.  This is a welcome upgrade — if only they would carry it through to the other Carreras — I am not a big fan of that style of bracelet.  Of course this bracelet change does not apply to the Racing model shown above (but  how could I not mention it here!).